What They Don’t Teach You in Fashion Buying School

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November 25, 2024
What They Don’t Teach You in Fashion School: Insights for Aspiring Fashion Buyers

Life in a buying office is a world away from the glossy pages of fashion magazines. It can feel like entering a new universe—one where creativity meets commerce, and every decision impacts a company’s bottom line.

You’ll spend your days juggling supplier negotiations, critical paths, and margin calculations—all while keeping an eye on sales performance and customer feedback. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but it’s incredibly rewarding.

If you’ve recently graduated from a fashion program transitioning into the fashion industry, or considering a career in this field, this article will help to bridging the gap between the classroom and the buying office.

As someone who has spent over two decades in the industry—starting as a designer and transitioning into a buyer, business manager and head of buying — I’ve experienced firsthand the reality of this role, which often differs wildly from what you might expect.

Expectation vs. Reality: The Glamour Myth

When you think of a fashion buyer, your mind might conjure images of glamorous offices, whirlwind trips to Paris Fashion Week, and days spent curating stunning collections. There are many mini ‘glamorous’ moments, but the reality is much more grounded.

Most days involve diving into spreadsheets, analyzing performance data, managing supplier meetings, and ensuring products arrive on time. Over the years I have attended many inspiring trade shows and market visits. I’ve traveled from Ireland to New York, Paris to Tokyo and even got to meet the creative minds behind the iconic Hello Kitty brand—a dream come true! But for every highlight, there are late nights, tight deadlines, and the unglamorous reality of negotiating costs and managing critical paths.

Takeaway: The glamour of the job is balanced by the hard work and precision that goes into keeping a retail business profitable. It’s about balancing creative instincts with business acumen to drive commercial success.

The Reality of working in a Buying Office 

Aspiring buyers often imagine their days filled with creating mood boards, choosing fabrics, colors, and silhouettes based purely on creative instincts. While creativity is essential, every decision is tied to business goals, customer insights, and sales data.

For example, one season, my team developed a simple V-neck T-shirt. It wasn’t flashy or trendy, but it had been modified with our customer in mind. We lengthened it and made with a slightly heavier fabric and offered it in multiple colour options. The result? It became a core product that sold consistently, season after season.

On the flip side, we once invested heavily in a statement jacket, a season ‘must have’ on-trend hero piece!!  Despite its beauty, it flopped. The price was too high, and it didn’t resonate with our core audience. The lesson? Trend-driven creativity must always align with customer demand and data.

Key Skills for Thriving in a Fashion Buying Career

One of the most critical aspects of buying is managing budgets and price points. You’re not just picking products—you’re curating a range that makes sense financially and appeals to your customer base.

I recall planning a summer dress collection where we had far too many pieces in the highest price point. This imbalance could confuse customers. Why pay more for one dress when another, cheaper option seems just as good? To resolve this, we had to review each piece, ensuring that the value was clear at every price level.

It’s a constant balancing act: maintaining variety, hitting margin targets, and ensuring your range is compelling and cohesive.

Market Nuances: Know Your Customer

Understanding your market is fundamental. What sells in one region might flop in another. Buyers must account for cultural and regional differences when planning ranges.

 Sometime this can be a significant difference across colour shades and palettes. In the European market, I knew that pinks and creams sold well for girls, while navy and grey dominated boyswear. But when I transitioned to the Middle East, I was surprised to find mustard yellow and chocolate brown topping the charts for boys.

These insights don’t come from guesswork—they come from analysing sales data and understanding cultural preferences. A buyer’s role isn’t just about trends; it’s about tailoring products to meet the unique needs of each market.

Takeaway: Never make assumptions. Always let data and market knowledge guide your decisions.

Trend Forecasting: Not the Whole Picture

If you’re passionate about predicting trends, you might assume this is a buyer’s main focus. But the reality is that trends are just one piece of the puzzle. Sales data, customer insights, and margins often outweigh the latest runway looks when it comes to finalizing a range.

For instance, we once planned a hero item based on a trending silhouette. Despite our excitement, the sales history for similar pieces suggested caution. Overriding the data, we overbought—and paid the price with heavy markdowns.

The key takeaway? Trends are important, but data drives decisions. A great buyer knows how to balance the two.

Being a fashion buyer is a dynamic, challenging, and deeply rewarding career. It’s about more than just picking products—it’s about shaping collections that resonate with customers and drive business success.

If you’re passionate, resilient, and ready to combine creativity with strategy, this could be the career for you. And remember, the glamour may be fleeting, but the satisfaction of seeing your work come to life on the shop floor is worth every spreadsheet, negotiation, and late night.

One of the biggest challenges for new buyers is the transition from studying fashion to working in a commercial environment. Fashion schools provide a solid foundation in design, trend analysis, and supply chains, but they often fall short in preparing students for the fast-paced, data-driven realities of a buying office.

That’s why I created the Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising Course. This course is designed to bridge that gap, breaking down complex tasks like range planning, supplier negotiations, and critical path management into actionable steps. It’s about giving you the tools and confidence to hit the ground running from day one.

For more insights and practical tips, check out the Thrive in Fashion podcast or visit thriveinfashion.com to learn about our courses and resources.

Remember, retail is detail, and success lies in understanding your customers and the numbers that drive their decisions.

Ready to build your career as a fashion buyer? Enroll in the Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising Course to gain the skills and confidence you need to succeed!”

 

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Elisabeth Mac Hale

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meet elisabeth

Meet  Elisabeth, the driving force behind The Design Directive. With over 25 years of experience in the fashion industry, Elisabeth has honed a unique skillset that combines fashion design, buying, and business management. As a passionate advocate for fashion retailers, she empowers businesses to innovate and grow by providing expert strategies and fashion buying know-how. Elevate your brand’s success with her guidance today!

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