What Happens When Fashion Buyers Go Too Far: How Supplier Relationships Are Destroyed.
Anonymous social media posts from fashion suppliers recently exposed a reality that I’ve witnessed throughout my 25-year career in fashion buying. Stories of suppliers not being paid for months, toxic communication, and experienced professionals leaving the industry entirely revealed just how far some buyer-supplier relationships have deteriorated.
Behind every anonymous comment is a real business with real people and families whose livelihoods are being destroyed by what has become normalized toxic behavior in our industry. It’s time we talked about why this is happening and how we can do better.
After decades in fashion buying, I’ve seen too many managers and buyers operating with the twisted belief that suppliers should be grateful for business no matter how poorly they’re treated. We’ve created a culture where owing hundreds of thousands or even millions to the very people who make our products possible is seen as “smart cash flow management.”
I’ve sat in meetings where buyers casually discussed stretching payment terms from 30 to 90 days, not because the company couldn’t afford to pay, but because they could get away with it. I’ve watched junior buyers speak to suppliers with a level of disrespect that would never be tolerated in any other business relationship.
The "Who Do You Think You Are?" Mentality
The most disturbing aspect is the threatening attitude some buyers adopt the “don’t you know who I am?” approach that treats suppliers’ livelihoods as disposable. I’ve witnessed purchase orders canceled at the last minute, leaving suppliers with finished goods they can’t sell, met with nothing more than a shrug and “it’s not my problem.”
One particularly comment I read was from someone who moved from the retail side to working for a supplier. They described the shocking difference: going from treating suppliers with respect as an extension of their team to being spoken to disrespectfully and expected to “jump through hoops continuously with very little appreciation.
This toxic behavior didn’t happen overnight. The relentless pressure for lower costs, higher margins, and faster turnaround times has concentrated on driving supplier margins into the ground. When business models depend on selling $50 dresses for $5, something has to give and unfortunately, that’s usually the supplier’s margin and dignity.
Large retailers know that suppliers need their business to survive, creating a power dynamic where buyers hold all the cards. This leads to:
- Payment delays used as negotiation tactics
- Last-minute specification changes with no compensation
- Unrealistic deadlines that set suppliers up to fail
- Constant demands for discounts without justification
The Training Problem
Many buyers genuinely believe that being tough on suppliers is part of their job description. They’ve been taught that negotiation means demanding the impossible and that showing consideration for supplier business needs is weakness. Junior buyers watch senior buyers operate this way and assume this is how it’s supposed to be done.
Here’s what happens when you push suppliers too far: they start finding ways to push back. I’ve seen suppliers accept orders but delay production until the last minute, then cancel entirely. One example involved a retailer placing a repeat order while reducing the cost price without discussion, reasoning they should get a volume discount. When questioned, they said “that’s what it is, take it or leave it.” The supplier accepted—then waited until the day before delivery to cancel.
Quality suffers when suppliers can’t afford proper materials or skilled workers. Innovation stops when suppliers can’t invest in new technology. Eventually, good suppliers simply stop working with toxic buyers altogether.
I’ve seen companies lose their best suppliers over payment disputes that could have been easily resolved. I’ve watched brands struggle with quality issues because they drove away suppliers who knew how to do the job right.
How Supplier Relationships Should Work
Real partnerships start with honest & transparent communication. Instead of sending demanding emails with unrealistic deadlines, explain the challenges you’re facing: “We’re experiencing cost pressures this season and want to work with you to find solutions that benefit both sides.”
Instead of treating suppliers like order-takers, include them in planning conversations. Let them know where they fit in the bigger picture and what the growth plan looks like.
Financial respect means:
- Having honest conversations about pricing instead of demanding cuts
- Understanding that suppliers have costs that sometimes increase
- Recognizing that sustainable practices require adequate payment
- Paying on agreed terms consistently
Suppliers aren’t your employees—they’re business partners running their own companies. The same courtesy and respect you’d show any professional should apply to them. This means:
- Responding to emails promptly
- Being clear about expectations
- Treating them with dignity
- Acknowledging good work and exceptional effort
I remember working with a supplier who was struggling with product samples. After much back-and-forth, I called to discuss the problem directly. She openly told me she thought the product was “ugly.” This made me laugh, and I asked for her opinion on how to make it better.
That simple question completely changed our dynamic. By valuing her expertise and creating a safe space for honest feedback, we built a relationship where innovation could flourish. The key was showing that I respected her as a professional partner, not just a manufacturer.
What Needs to Change:
For Fashion Buyers
Start by honestly evaluating your own behavior:
- Would you want to be spoken to the way you speak to suppliers?
- Are you treating suppliers like partners or vendors?
- When did you last ask a supplier how to improve your working relationship?
Practical changes:
- Treat supplier emails with the same urgency as internal communications
- Explain reasons for changes and ask how to minimize impact
- Acknowledge good work and communicate successes to management
- Pay on agreed terms without using delays as leverage
For Suppliers
Document everything: late payments, last-minute changes, unprofessional behavior. Set clear terms and stick to them. Remember, it’s okay to walk away from customers who consistently treat you poorly.
Build relationships with multiple clients so you’re not dependent on any single brand. Network with other suppliers to share information about which companies are good partners and which to avoid.
For Industry Leaders
The change needs to come from the top. Companies that build strong supplier partnerships consistently outperform those that don’t. Suppliers who trust you share their best innovations first, and when you treat people with respect, they’ll move mountains to help you succeed.
We’re losing experienced suppliers because we’ve forgotten that business success and ethical treatment aren’t mutually exclusive. When a supplier with 14 years of experience leaves the industry because they “can’t believe how much sh*t is just accepted,” we lose irreplaceable knowledge and expertise.
The Competitive Advantage of Respect
I’ve maintained supplier relationships for over 25 years in fashion buying. The fashion industry is small, and you never know when paths will cross again. When you need orders held or expedited, when quality issues arise, when innovation opportunities emerge—these relationships become your competitive advantage.
Quality issues get resolved quickly because there’s trust and communication. Suppliers will prioritize your orders because they know you’ll treat them fairly. They’ll share new developments with you first because they value the partnership.
The suppliers speaking up on social media aren’t just complaining—they’re calling for much-needed change. Anonymous voices are becoming bolder because the situation has become unsustainable.
If you’re entering the fashion industry, you have the power to create the culture you want to see. Don’t accept toxic behaviour as “just how things work.” Question practices that seem unfair and build relationships based on respect and partnership from the beginning.
Remember: suppliers aren’t just manufacturers, they’re the foundation that makes our industry possible. Without suppliers, we wouldn’t have products to sell in stores. When we strengthen this foundation through ethical treatment and genuine partnership, everyone benefits. When we weaken it through exploitation and disrespect, everyone suffers.
The question isn’t whether change is needed in fashion supplier relationships, it’s whether we’ll be part of creating positive change or part of the problem that gets left behind.
The anonymous posts that inspired this discussion represent real businesses, real people, and real opportunities for our industry to do better. By choosing respect over exploitation, partnership over power games, and long-term thinking over short-term savings, we can build a fashion industry that works for everyone.
The change starts with each of us examining our own relationships and asking: “How would I feel if someone treated my business the way I treat suppliers?” If that question makes you uncomfortable, good—that’s the first step toward creating the industry we all want to work in.
Want to learn more about building strong supplier relationships and ethical fashion buying practices? Explore my comprehensive course “Thrive in Fashion Buying & Merchandising” and discover how to create partnerships that drive success for everyone involved.
